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Learn more about gemstones
Jewelry Metals

Many different metals are used in production of jewelry. Below please find brief information about the most popular metals used for jewelry, as well as care and cleaning instructions for the jewelry made with of such metals.

Gold

Gold is one of the most visually attractive of all metals, and because of its unique qualities, is considered the "most precious" metal. Pure (24K) gold is actually too soft to be appropriate for everyday wear. Therefore gold jewelry is made out of a mixture of gold with other metals (such as silver, copper and nickel). The K (karat) is a unit of purity of gold; it consists of 24 parts, and lets us know what portion of the alloy is pure gold. For example 18K gold is 18/24, or 75% pure gold.

In Europe, gold is measured in units other than K (karat), instead its purity is indicated with a number representing the gold content in parts per thousand. For example, 18K gold, which is 75% pure gold, is stamped 750.

The color of the gold is determined by the metals used in the alloy; use of nickel (or platinum, and/or palladium) lends white gold its grayish color, while a high amount of copper creates the reddish color or the rose gold. Though by itself gold does not tarnish, the addition of these metals sometimes causes jewelry to darken with time, or leave dark residue on the skin.

Care & Cleaning:

  • Protect your gold jewelry by storing it safely or keeping it wrapped in a soft cloth when not being worn.
  • Keep your gold jewelry free from dust, moisture and perspiration.
  • Exposure to direct sunlight for a long time can affect gold's luster.
  • Chemicals usually present during housework or gardening are likely to have destructive effects.
  • Chlorine and other disinfectant chemicals in hot tubs and swimming pools can react to the alloys in gold resulting in pitting or discoloration.
  • When cleaning gold jewelry, always use soft, non-abrasive material.
  • Gold cleaning solutions can be useful for maintaining the shine on your gold pieces or on delicate links, granulation and filigree, which a cloth alone may not reach.
  • Dry and polish jewelry gently with a chamois or soft lint free cloth
  • Grease can be removed by dipping the jewelry into alcohol.
  • One method of cleaning is a detergent bath. Use any mild liquid detergent found in your home (such as dishwashing soap) and prepares a small bowl of warm suds. Brush the pieces with a small and very soft brush while they are in the bath. Then transfer them to a wire tea strainer and rinse under warm running water. Pat dry with a soft, lint-free cloth
  • Another well known method is a cold water soak. Make a solution out of 50% cold water and 50% household ammonia in a cup. Soak the pieces for 30 minutes. Lift out gently clean with an eyebrow brush or toothbrush. Swish in the solution once more and let the jewelry drain on tissue paper.
  • Brand-name liquid jewelry cleaners can be found in many stores. Cleaning instructions vary depending on the kit, so read the label and follow its instructions.
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Platinum

Platinum is rarer, and therefore more expensive, than gold. It is grayish-white in color, non-tarnishing, and very strong. Very high temperatures are necessary to melt platinum; therefore, it did not become a viable jewelry metal until advancements in jewelers' tools were made in the late 1800s. It became the most popular jewelry metal in America in the 1920s; its durability made it the ideal choice for the lacy filigree styles of the period. Jewelry platinum is an alloy, usually 90% platinum and 10% iridium. Platinum jewelry is typically stamped "Plat."

Care & Cleaning:

  • Though platinum jewelry is very durable, you should still take good care of it and take it off when doing rough work or working with harsh chemicals.
  • To clean your platinum jewelry, soak them in a mild solution of soap and warm water, then gently scrub them with a soft bristle brush.
  • Store platinum in a fabric-lined box away from other pieces, so it does not get scratched.
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Silver

Sterling silver is an alloy of 92 1/2% silver and 7 1/2% copper. Because silver tarnishes easily and is less durable than gold or platinum, it is not considered an ideal metal for setting precious stones. Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver; such pieces are often marked "SS," "Sterling," or "925." Coin silver is 90% silver and is sometimes marked "900." German silver and nickel silver are misnomers for alloys of other metals that contain no silver at all.

Its beauty increases with use which causes a patina or soft sheen to form. Plated silver is silver that has been electroplated over another metal. Silver tarnishes when exposed to air. This occurs more quickly in damp and foggy weather, but is inevitable in any climate. Store in treated paper or cloth, or plastic film.

Care & Cleaning:

  • Methods of cleaning silver should be determined by the valued placed on it, monetary or sentimental, and the design of the pattern. Silver with deeply "carved" patterns that are enhanced by an oxide or French gray finish should be hand polished with a high quality silver cream or polish.
  • Ornamental silver pieces that have been lacquered may be washed in lukewarm water; hot water could remove the lacquer. Polishing silver while wearing rubber gloves promotes tarnish. Instead, choose plastic or cotton gloves.
  • Rubber corrodes silver, and it can become so deeply etched that only a silversmith can repair the damage. Raised designs can be lost permanently. Avoid using storage cabinets or chests with rubber seals, rubber floor coverings, rubber bands, etc.
  • Baking Soda: Apply a paste of baking soda and water. Rub, rinse, and polish dry with a soft cloth. To remove tarnish from silverware, sprinkle baking soda on a damp cloth and rub it on the silverware until tarnish is gone. Rinse and dry well.
  • Aluminum Foil, Baking Soda, and Salt: Place a sheet of aluminum foil in the bottom of a pan, add 2-3 inches of water, 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil. Add silver pieces; boil 2-3 minutes, making sure the water covers the silver pieces. Remove silver, rinse, dry, and buff with a soft cloth. This method cleans the design and crevices of silver pieces. Toothpaste. To clean off tarnish, coat the silver with toothpaste, then run it under warm water, work it into foam, and rinse it off. For stubborn stains or intricate grooves, use an old soft-bristled toothbrush.
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Vermeil

Popular in eighteenth century France, vermeil pieces were made of sterling silver and coated with gold ("silver gilt"). Production was banned in the early 1800s, however, when it was discovered that the mercury used in the process caused the craftsmen to go blind.

Care & Cleaning:
Be careful of cleaning vermeil, as it's very sensitive to any cleaning solutions. The gold layer in vermeil jewelry is not made for abrasive cleaning or prolonged wear. These pieces are only for show or special occasions and should be slightly cleaned and carefully put away.

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